Stockholm, Paris, Moscow, Tokyo, Istanbul, London. You’ll find street style blogs for almost every major city. Amateur and professional photographers hang around outside fashion shows or just prowl the fashionable shopping streets looking for (mostly) women wearing interesting outfits, taking picture of them and posting them on their blogs. The subjects of these pictures are flattered by the attention, or at least the ones we get to see are. This is a genuinely new phenomenon, a product of the internet, a distinctly 21st century thing. Photographers have taken pictures in the street since it was technically possible but no-one ever did a style blog in the early years of the twentieth century.
But Edward Linley Sambourne came close.
A picture taken in Cromwell Road in July 1906.
Linley Sambourne was by 1906 the chief cartoonist of Punch. He’d had a four decade long career as a cartoonist and illustrator. He was also an enthusiastic amateur photographer. He had taken up photography as an aid to his art. He was a skilled draughtsman, obsessed with getting details correct but he preferred to work with a model. Photography gave him the ability to take pictures of family, friends and professional models which he could use as the basis for his cartoons. He took thousands of pictures in his lifetime most of them for reference purposes including dozens of images of military uniforms, national dress, models in pseudo-classical costumes and fancy dress of all kinds. His wife Marion complained in her diary that photography had become as much an obsession as a hobby.
Much of his work was in his home studio:
These blue-tinged photographs are cyanotypes, a kind of print suitable for the cost-conscious amateur. The second image is of Sambourne’s daughter Maud striking a pose he subsequently used in a cartoon.
In the last decade of his life he also worked outdoors, on holiday and in the streets of Kensington.
What Sambourne captures in his street photography, and why his pictures are of interest to historians of fashion, is a certain casual look all the young women in them have, which is quite different from the formal image of Edwardian fashion you see in many textbooks and costume dramas.
A cyclist struggles with an enormous hat.
A woman Sambourne snobbishly describes as a “shop girl” strolls down Kensington Church Street engrossed in a book.
Without her hat this woman could walk down the Earls Court Road at almost any time in the twentieth century.
The one difference between Sambourne’s street photography and the pictures taken by modern style bloggers is that for the most part his subjects had no idea they were being photographed. Sambourne used a concealed camera. What do we think of this? Does it change your view of the pictures? In Sambourne’s defence it could be said that attitudes to photography were different in the early years of the twentieth century and that notions of the right to privacy hadn’t been completely worked out. But most modern photographers, amateur or professional wouldn’t work like this now.
From our point of view the images are part of history. The subjects are all dead now along with the man who took them. The photographs are interesting because they show us how women looked in a certain part of London in the early 1900s, so I show you some of them here because they are part of the history of Kensington.
I think a few of Sambourne’s subjects had worked out what he was doing. This woman looks curious.
So like her make your own mind up about Edward Linley Sambourne as another woman reads while walking.
And walks away from the camera’s eye.
March 29th, 2012 at 1:43 am
[…] original here: Street style 1906: Edward Linley Sambourne's fashion blog « The … Tags: and-professional, every-major, find-street, for-almost, london, moscow, outside-fashion, […]
April 5th, 2012 at 4:42 pm
It is interesting what you say about taking pictures in secret. With the recent development of cameras on mobile phones there is a new movement of street photography (or iphonography as they call it) which can now be found on blogs, as a mobile phone can be easily hidden when taking those surreptitious photos!
April 10th, 2012 at 1:47 pm
What wonderful pictures! it’s a bit creepy that they were taken in secret, but at the same time, gives them an immediacy that would otherwise be lacking.
May 10th, 2013 at 6:52 pm
Absolutely. The fact that they are taken with hidden camera is exactly why they are important. These pics show natural posture and attitude–both things that are changed in formal pics.
April 11th, 2012 at 2:53 pm
I like these images but I’m a bit confused by your post. There is nothing wrong with concealing the fact you are taking photos of people out in public because people behave differently if they think you are doing it and that kind of undermines the reason for doing it in the first place. I also find the suggestion that Sambourne was creepy or suspect for doing it kind of weird in itself. Why is it creepy for an illustrator to take photos of people in movement? Would you describe someone sketching in a public place as creepy? Much of the photography going on at this time was static, some of it was aping high art, all still lives and scenes from the bible or literature. I would have thought that it was a laudible thing to do. This wasn’t a new technology by the time he took these photographs but he was being highly inventive in the way he was using the medium, if anything he was pushing photography in the direction it is most commonly used for, making way for the whole ‘decisive moment’ thing which has come to dominate.
April 11th, 2012 at 11:46 pm
I wouldn’t use the word creepy but there is an issue here about an elderly man covertly taking photographs of young women. Sambourne didn’t think he was doing anything wrong, and by the standards of the day he probably wan’t . He was a good photographer with a good eye, which is why the pictures are worth looking at today and for us they catch a particular moment in a particular part of London, fashionable Kensington. I’m thinking of doing a post on his holiday photos from the same period. What do you think?
Dave
July 22nd, 2012 at 9:40 pm
These photographs strongly parallel those taken by Jacques-Henri Lartigue in Paris at roughly the same time. The difference being, this amateur photographer was a teenager when he hid in the bushes and behind benches to record the movements of unsuspecting female fashion icons. His clandestine Bois de Boulogne photographs likewise show unguarded women in the fashions of the day, and sometimes Lartigue was likewise caught in the act.
April 11th, 2012 at 7:27 pm
Lovely pictures and insights into those days. But it’s not the same woman in the two bottom pictures. The skirt of the dress and the sleeves and handbag are different. (Was this written by a man?)
April 11th, 2012 at 11:23 pm
Actually it was written by a man who thought you might not notice. The two pictures went well together as a conclusion (a woman walks towards the photographer, then walks away which I thought was quite neat) but have different dates. I try to tell a story in these posts. I hope it didn’t spoil it for you.
Dave
April 12th, 2012 at 5:35 pm
Hi there, Not at all… I’m an editor so I tend to pick up on these things! I think the blog is wonderful and have recommended it to others and, as a former resident of the area who remembers the adult library looking like it does in your header image, I’m very much enjoying reading your posts.
May 10th, 2013 at 6:57 pm
Hmm….rather not have you cheat like that. It undermines your credibility. It’s plain that it’s not the same woman.
April 12th, 2012 at 8:32 pm
[…] Without her hat this woman could almost walk down the Earls Court Road at almost any time in the twentieth century. Street style 1906: Edward Linley Sambourne’s fashion blog « The Library Time Machine […]
April 12th, 2012 at 10:19 pm
[…] of the time looked like in their natural habitat. See more photographs at The Library Time Machine. Link -via Nag on the […]
April 13th, 2012 at 2:29 am
I enjoyed the fashion in these photographs, thank you. However one thing occured to me, to see the girls / women walking down the street reading it highlighted that things aren’t so very different when we now see people walking the streets intent on reading their phones.
May 10th, 2012 at 2:48 pm
I would so love to know what they are reading!
April 13th, 2012 at 4:43 am
[…] plus d’info sur Edward Linley, je vous conseille de suivre ce lien ICI. Les photos suivantes proviennent aussi de ce […]
April 13th, 2012 at 12:22 pm
Have you ever seen certain photo blogs that document people’s fashion choices via secretly taken photos (frequently in big box stores)? Those photos are intentionally derogatory. They usually show people’s faces and sometimes even their license plate numbers. At times they are labeled with where and when the photo was taken. Those photos are then put on the internet for all to see for perpetuity. How are these photos worse than those? The photographer was trying to catch women unaware, but it doesn’t appear that he was trying to also catch them in a way that they might be embarrassed of. I think anyone who wants to be critical of this photographer should also take into account what goes on in the current day. I’m just saying.
April 14th, 2012 at 1:22 am
Very interesting!
April 14th, 2012 at 1:14 pm
[…] Street style in 1906. […]
April 16th, 2012 at 11:54 am
Holiday towns freqently had street photographers. As I understand it they’d photograph people then give out a card so that you could come and get (pay for) your own snap – a bit like all those photos you get from waterslides etc. We’ve a few of these of my grandmother in the 1930s.
April 17th, 2012 at 6:36 pm
[…] | The Library Time Machine ¿Te ha gustado? ¡Compártelo! Pin ItShare on TumblrMe gusta:Me gustaSé el primero en decir que […]
April 18th, 2012 at 9:00 am
[…] Library Time Machine delivers the goods every time – astounding pictures and great writing – if you haven’t heard of Edward Linley Sambourne, Punch cartoonist and 1906 papp, read this. […]
April 20th, 2012 at 5:31 am
Los sombreros eran bastante grandes, las camisas hermosas y estilisadas, y los zapatos HORRENDOS xD
April 24th, 2012 at 5:25 pm
[…] blogging is not dead. Street style photography is as old as photography itself – it won’t die, and there will be successors to the current crop. The well-dressed girl […]
April 30th, 2012 at 12:23 pm
[…] Everybody Street – great interviews with some of New York City’s best street photographers, where style is incidental to the documentation. A dying art as omnipresent observation has irreversibly changed the way people self-present. Related: surreptitious Edwardian street style. […]
April 30th, 2012 at 10:06 pm
classic and exotic style. . . a like it. . . caps. .
June 28th, 2012 at 11:02 am
[…] Source: The Library Time Machine, Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea […]
June 28th, 2012 at 9:30 pm
[…] is that for the most part his subjects had no idea they were being photographed,” explains Dave Walker, who originally posted about his work. “Sambourne used a concealed camera.” […]
June 28th, 2012 at 11:07 pm
[…] – The Edwardian SartorialistA wonderful set of fashion images found via Retronaut from The Library Time Machine, the Kensington Library blog curated by Dave Walker. A leading Punch cartoonist at the time […]
July 7th, 2012 at 9:08 am
[…] Streetstyle en 1900 […]
July 18th, 2012 at 12:56 pm
[…] Sambourne, at Kensington Central Library. A selection of the photographs can currently be seen at their blog. Recommended for fans of Edwardian photography, fashion, and literary women. Share […]
July 18th, 2012 at 2:23 pm
well done Dave in preserving these wonderful images.They look addly recent because of the casual manner in which the women were caught on camera. Edwardian fashion looks so feminine – though perhaps a tad tiring to have worn.
July 19th, 2012 at 6:36 pm
[…] Street style 1906: Edward Linley Sambourne’s fashion blog (via Coudal) […]
July 22nd, 2012 at 2:02 pm
[…] Street style 1906: Edward Linley Sambourne’s fashion blog [The Library Time Machine] […]
July 22nd, 2012 at 11:13 pm
[…] subjects unaware. A visit to the source of this article (which the DM of course failed to mention), the wonderful blog of the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea Libraries, reveals a bit […]
July 24th, 2012 at 3:58 pm
wonderful images
August 1st, 2012 at 4:12 pm
[…] friends, family members, and professional models as references for his cartoons, according to the Library Time Machine, an archival blog operated by the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea. In the last decade of […]
August 2nd, 2012 at 4:35 am
[…] friends, family members, and professional models as references for his cartoons, according to the Library Time Machine, an archival blog operated by the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea. In the last decade of […]
August 7th, 2012 at 9:31 am
[…] friends, family members, and professional models as references for his cartoons, according to the Library Time Machine, an archival blog operated by the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea. In the last decade of […]
August 14th, 2012 at 11:39 pm
[…] The weblog of the Kensington Library has many wonderful entries, and a favorite of mine is the post on 1906 fashions of the street! […]
August 25th, 2012 at 5:01 pm
[…] Linley Sambourne saíram do esquecimento graças ao dedicadíssimo Dave Walker, que mantém o Library Time Machine. Para as leitoras que querem saber mais, vale uma visita à este acervo eletrônico de Kensington […]
September 11th, 2012 at 1:44 pm
These could be my grandmother. Wonderful images. Thanks for showing me.
September 12th, 2012 at 12:01 pm
[…] The Library Time Machine, via Edwardian Era Share this:MoreLike this:LikeBe the first to like […]
January 21st, 2013 at 2:34 am
[…] Dave Walker Published by: The Library Time Machine PHOTOS: The Royal Borough of Kensington & Chelsea […]
February 16th, 2013 at 5:05 am
[…] a trip to Paris and are available through the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea Library’s website. In these photographs, women are seen walking down sidewalks, across streets, up steps, and […]
February 23rd, 2013 at 3:40 pm
[…] Edwardian photos that prove street style photography did not start with The […]
April 28th, 2013 at 11:30 pm
beautiful!
May 10th, 2013 at 6:21 pm
[…] https://rbkclocalstudies.wordpress.com/2012/03/29/street-style-1906-edward-linley-sambournes-fashion-… […]
August 23rd, 2013 at 12:00 pm
[…] Meer zien? Bekijk de rest van de streetstyle serie bij de The Library Time Machine. […]
October 21st, 2013 at 12:49 am
These are the best pictures I’ve seen of this time and place. He has captured a naturalistic view of young women about the streets and the cut and detail of their fashion/uniform. All so smart and sensible.
I had found my GGGrandparents Henry Edward Clark and wife Alice living at 7 Campden Street, being Tailors, living above a shop. My thoughts then, go to the workers working behind the scenery.
June 10th, 2014 at 4:25 am
For the last photo you could have written, ‘ Another woman walks away from the camera.’ It’s so obviously a different woman. Apart from that mistake, the photos are very revealing. I only think it’s weird because he focussed on women only. Men have wonderful styles, especially in that era.
September 11th, 2014 at 9:17 pm
[…] loves these “street style” pictures taken in 1906 by photographer Edward Linley Sambourne: “It’s amazing to see pictures of women going […]
October 2nd, 2014 at 8:02 pm
[…] Photographies | The Library Time Machine […]
January 3rd, 2015 at 3:00 am
[…] images via Leighton House Museum & The Library Time Machine, Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea & […]
January 3rd, 2015 at 8:36 am
[…] via Street style 1906: Edward Linley Sambourne’s fashion blog | The Library Time Machine. […]
January 6th, 2015 at 6:02 pm
[…] Images via Leighton House Museum / The Library Time Machine, Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea […]
January 16th, 2015 at 2:01 pm
[…] Central Library, hat schon vor einiger Zeit in seinem Blog The Library Time Mashine den Beitrag Street style 1906: Edward Linley Sambourne’s fashion blog veröffentlicht und damit wohl über den ältesten “Street Style Blog” […]
January 23rd, 2015 at 10:44 pm
[…] This photo was taken in 1906 and forms part of an excellent blog post by Dave Walker, titled Street style 1906: Edward Linley Sambourne’s fashion blog. […]
October 1st, 2016 at 12:29 am
[…] Walker, Dave. 2012. “Street Style 1906: Edward Linley Sambourne’s Fashion Blog.” The Library Time Machine, 29 March. https://rbkclocalstudies.wordpress.com/2012/03/29/street-style-1906-edward-linley-sambournes-fashion… […]
January 10th, 2017 at 4:35 pm
[…] cartoonist and amateur photographer Edward Linley Sambourne begins capturing stylish women on the streets of London, often without his subjects knowing he’s doing so. If the internet […]
May 13th, 2017 at 4:13 am
[…] look. The Edwardian mode was a new casual style that is still very pretty to look at – as these Edward Sambourne photos testify. Sleeves were puffed at the shoulders and slim from the elbows. Lacy frills appeared on […]
December 18th, 2017 at 9:02 am
Reblogged this on Show Image Focus.
December 28th, 2017 at 8:05 pm
Hi! I was wondering if these and other photographs by Linley Sambourne are available online in a database anywhere. I’d like to look at all of his photographs of “street fashion”, not just the ones posted in these blog posts.
January 3rd, 2018 at 10:53 am
Kathryn
I think i did about 6 posts on Sambourne which pretty much exhausted the scans I did from a set of small albums which someone in the family made towards the end of his life, which used to be stored in our archive rooms. The street photos were only a fraction of his total output (mostly studio and work at home) and I don’t know whether they represent a final phase in his work (he died in 1910). I believe that there may be more street images, as Leighton House Museum, the owners of the collection, have put a few out on Twitter etc that I haven’t seen before but I don’t know how many.
I was the first one to draw a parallel between his work and modern street style photography but that is really just an interesting angle on his work, probably not something that was in his mind at the time.
Dave
January 13th, 2018 at 11:01 am
[…] Aug. 2, 1906 Kensington Church Street IMAGE: LEIGHTON HOUSE MUSEUJM / THE LIBRARY TIME MACHINE, ROYAL BOROUGH OF KENSINGTON AND CHELSEA […]
October 22nd, 2018 at 7:48 pm
Hi; fab photos- whom do I contact regarding copyright usage of a part of a photo in a collage for a digital book cover? I believe it to be within public domain according to my understanding of copyright law, but I always want to check.
October 25th, 2018 at 3:56 pm
Patti
I will be replying to your e-mail address.
Dave
October 22nd, 2018 at 7:51 pm
PS I am glad I discovered this blog! Very wonderful!
September 1st, 2019 at 5:45 am
I’ve recently started to write .. a book? Novel – short story? Not sure yet how it will turn out as it’s a long planned but very new project for me. However I’m keen to make any description of my character as accurate as can be and until now I’ve had to rely on tv productions to see what women of the 1900s wore. I guessed that in real life the clothes would not be quite so elaborate and your photographs show just what I needed. Thank you for these photos – they are bringing my characters even more life , in my imagination , than before. Lovely images!
July 14th, 2020 at 5:33 am
[…] from https://rbkclocalstudies.wordpress.com/ Retrieved from […]
August 25th, 2022 at 1:49 pm
[…] At the dawn of the 20th century, Mr. Sambourne was living in West London, where most of these photographs were taken on the streets of Kensington. His townhouse on Stafford Terrace is in fact a museum today, a perfectly preserved time capsule of Edwardian era life. In the attic, he kept a studio and converted the bathroom into a dark room where he developed hundreds of photographs, now held in the archives of the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea Library. […]
August 25th, 2022 at 10:49 pm
Grazie di questo meraviglioso articolo! Adoro il contenuto, le foto, le ricerche fatte, tutto tutto! Complimenti! Magico essere riportati indietro a quel tempo…ma, chissà…magari nella mia vita precedente ero quella ragazza dalla vita sottile e dalla lunga treccia che passeggia x le strade di Kensington…la magia della fotografia!