We’ve seen the riverside at Chelsea in its pre-Embankment days documented by James Hedderly and others but this week’s pictures were all taken after the construction of the Chelsea Embankment. Duke Street and Lombard Street were swept away and the picturesque jumble of houses and taverns facing directly onto the river were demolished. This picture looks across the river towards the industrial landscape of Battersea. We’ll look more closely at that in a moment but look at our man first. He’s standing on the river bed at high tide. That walkway is still there today and many years ago when I was more agile than I am today I climbed down and stood where he is standing. I wouldn’t recommend it, and I imagine the ladder you could use then is better protected today.
I’m not sure what he’s doing. There are chains down there, mooring points for barges perhaps and he might be clearing mud from the walkway. Victorian industry was labour intensive. The cheapest way to do something was to get a person to do it with the simplest tools to hand. He had a moment anyway to look up at the camera.
Across the river there is no embankment but rather than the houses and small wharves of the Chelsea side you see moorings for large barges with spindly piers reaching out to them.
Warehouses, chimneys, a saw mill. There is a barely visible lock on the left I think behind which there was a creek with access to more industrial spaces.
We’re testing the limits of magnification here. But you can read the sign in this one:
Life and work were still conducted at a smaller scale on the Chelsea side as shown here:
The former site of Lombard Street is now part of Cheyne Walk although the shops on the northern side have survived. Mr Spells (and his daughter?) also have time to pose for Mr Hedderly. No-one thought to clean up the horse manure which is quite visible in the foreground. It was probably a constant for passers-by.
You can make out the well-stocked windows and the sign on left which you can read the words Savings Bank but not the whole message.
The white building is our old friend Maunders’ Fish Shop. This view looking back westwards shows one of the new gardens built after the Embankment and the parade of shops called Lombard Terrace. This is one of the best views of the Old Church. It looks as though there is early morning mist – a pleasing effect but I have to admit to covering up some chemical decomposition by converting the picture to greyscale. I still like it though.
Looking in the same direction from further east is one of Hedderly’s most familiar images:
The King’s Head and Eight Bells with a crowd of shop keepers and other interested parties, all maintaining their poses, perhaps encouraged by the two policemen. The street sign for Cheyne Row is quite visible.
Moving eastward again:
Behind the trees you can see the grand house of Cheyne Walk but in the foreground timber is waiting for loading or unloading, together with a piece of casual advertising aimed at passing boat traffic.
We can’t leave the new riverside without a slightly earlier view of the Embankment under construction.
You can see how much land was gained. Cheyne Walk became a wide new highway instead of a semi-rural riverside track. Chelsea became part of Central London, losing some of its qualities as a picturesque backwater. Ironically just as this was happening the focus of commercial life was moving north towards the King’s Road.
April 19th, 2012 at 8:08 pm
Starring David Walker the Mind Reader.
Another marvellous post…this one is getting tweeted.
April 20th, 2012 at 5:18 am
Thank you very much for these and other posts. The Hedderley photos in particular are a continuous source of fascination.
April 20th, 2012 at 10:10 pm
The sign which is difficult to read in the fourth picture says: “Patent Plumbago Crucible Company”
http://www.morgancrucible.com/about-us/business-overview/our-history/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octavius_Vaughan_Morgan
http://www.gracesguide.co.uk/1862_London_Exhibition:_Catalogue:_Class_I.:_Patent_Plumbago_Crucible_Co
The factory was still going strong over a hundred years later. A lot of World’s Enders worked there when I was growing up in the 60s until production was moved to Wales in the early 70s.
Precious photo! Thanks Dave!
April 21st, 2012 at 2:07 pm
Chris
That’s fascinating because I’ve always thought (because of the features on the river bed on which the man is standing) that Hedderly took the photograph from the Embankment while standing east of Battersea Bridge. But once you know what the sign says he must have been standing west of the bridge. So forget that part about me standing on the same spot a hundred and something years later. At some point I shall have to go back at low tide and take a few photographs.
Dave
May 1st, 2012 at 4:22 pm
Dave, I should say the plank walkway the man in the photo is standing on is the same as the one that can be seen in another photo you posted on here a while back:
i.e. it was part of Greaves’ boatyard and was right opposite the Greaves family home on the corner of Milman’s Street.
April 20th, 2012 at 10:14 pm
Sorry, the third link above doesn’t work. By the way, the factory was known by most people simply as Morgan’s.
April 20th, 2012 at 10:41 pm
Me again! Here’s a map from 1874 showing where the Plumbago Crucible Works was:
April 21st, 2012 at 5:46 pm
Was there a police station in ‘Lombard Terrace’; one of the last buildings before the Sloan memorial and Church? It was shown in the 1959 movie ‘blind date’ with Hardy Kruger.
May 1st, 2012 at 5:04 pm
Squidgy, is this where you saw the “police station”?
http://www.reelstreets.com/index.php?option=com_films&task=view&id=87&film_ref=blind_date&Itemid=2
… or did you see the original film?
You’ve both got the street name wrong though! You call it Lombard Terrace, which was on the other side of the Old Church and was bombed out of existence in 1944 … where Roper’s Garden is now. Reel Streets says its in Royal Hospital Road! But in reality, that stretch, behind Chelsea Embankment Gardens, is Cheyne Walk.
I’ve got no idea whether it was an actual police station or not. The people at Reel Streets seem to think it was fake, seeing as they keep calling it the “police station” in inverted commas. As far as I know the only police stations in Chelsea have been the one in Lucan Place that’s still there and the one on the corner of Milman’s Street.
May 2nd, 2012 at 9:50 am
Many thanks Dave – fascinating!
Hi Chris and thanks for correcting me – I should have known it was Cheyne Walk. I can’t find any record of a police station in Cheyne Walk.
The Milman’s Street police station is shown in the movie ‘Victim’ with Dirk Bogarde. In the movie I believe they refer to it as “Fulham Police Station”.
http://www.reelstreets.com/index.php?option=com_films_online&task=view&id=1082&film_ref=victim&Itemid=3
I don’t remember it as a police station but recall a sign on the side of the building indicating ‘Chelsea Boys Club’. It was right opposite my mother’s old surgery!
http://london1912.co.uk/streets/KingsRoadSouthSW10.shtml
Regards
May 2nd, 2012 at 1:21 pm
Sincere thanks Dave for yet another fascinating set of Chelsea images and history.
Yes indeed, Chris, I should have known that the location was Cheyne Walk, and thanks! I too can’t find any reference to a police station there; in my opinion however the building does ‘look the part’ with that lamp outside; quite a good movie choice for a cop shop!
Here’s a street directory from 1921:
http://historyofstratford.co.uk/streets/CheyneWalk.shtml
I do remember the one that was on the corner of Milman’s Street. This I know well – it was directly opposite my mother’s old surgery. However, I don’t remember it very well as a police station but do recall the sign on the side of the building reading ‘Chelsea Boys Club’. Along with a few other good shots around the area, it was used in the film ‘Victim’, starring Dirk Bogarde – as “Fulham Police Station”:
http://www.reelstreets.com/index.php?option=com_films_online&task=view&id=1082
‘What A Whopper’, starring Adam Faith is not yet up on the reelstreets site; you may know that there is an excellent opening sequence with shots of the Worlds End etc.
Thanks again and regards
May 3rd, 2012 at 2:49 pm
I’d never heard of “What A Whopper”! Congratulations on your expert knowledge of British cinema, Squidgybod! I’ll have to track down a copy.
October 3rd, 2012 at 11:31 pm
great pictures.
December 27th, 2012 at 2:00 pm
[…] (gemodelleerd door S. Burnett) en je kunt deze zien op Chelsea Embankment. Zie de laatste foto in dit blog voor de aanleg van Chelsea Embankment met de Bazalgette lantaarnpalen. Maar, voor de Victoria en […]
December 27th, 2012 at 2:01 pm
[…] (modelled by S. Burnett) and you can see those on the Chelsea Embankment. See the last picture in this blog post for the construction of Chelsea Embankment with the Bazalgette lampposts. But for the Victoria and […]